The Three Capes Track

While modern day exploration of this part of the Tasman Peninsula can be attributed to the mid-twentieth century adventures of Tasmanian walkers and climbers, others had been there before. In the mid-1800s, colonial surveyor James Sprent erected a survey cairn on Cathedral Bluff, one of 206 such cairns erected across the island state by this intrepid individual and his off sider. It is also likely that exploration would have been undertaken by Port Arthur penal settlement officials and that incarcerated convicts would have known of this country, either through work activities (timber getting for example) or as escapees. Mind you, there were probably easier directions to take when attempting escape given the peninsulas isolated nature and its inhospitable terrain and vegetation, to say nothing of the climate. Of course, pre-dating all of the above activity was the custodianship of the land by its original indigenous owners, the pydareme people, who managed this land and its resources for millennia. While there have been tracks in the area for decades, the development of the Three Capes Walk (between 2011 and 2015) was a game changer. During that time 35 km of track and 3 overnight accommodation precincts were developed, providing world-class facilities for those who were willing and able to carry a backpack of 12-15 kg but wanted some comfort at the end of the day. Each day, up to 48 walkers commence the 4 day trek, consequently there is a maximum number of around 200 people on the track at any one time. This may seem a lot, but in fact it is rare to meet other walkers. While I had the pre-walk opinion that it would be a walk-in-the-park, this was not the case. It was certainly challenging enough to feel that you had earnt that soft mattress and good cooking facilities at the end of the day….and the shower on Day 2 was a bonus. More information available at https://www.threecapestrack.com.au.

Day 1: Port Arthur to Surveyors (4 km). Walkers are ferried by boat from Port Arthur to the start of the walk at the mouth of Denmans Creek on the eastern side of Maingon Bay. While it is a relatively short distance across to the start, a 1 hour boat tour provides an introduction to the history, landscapes and environment of the region.

Cliffs and caves on the western side of the entry to Maingon Bay

Kelp stacks near the entry to the bay

The first views of the terrain that we will be traversing in the coming days with Cape Pillar and Tasman Island very prominant landmarks. We walk to Cape Pillar on the third day.

Looking back to the west is Cape Raoul. This is in fact the third cape (as in 3 capes walk) although it is currently not included in the typical walk undetaken by most. We added this cape to the itinerary on day 5.

The start of the Three Capes Track at the mouth of Denmans Creek. Many walkers strip off for a quick dip before heading to the first hut which is only 4km away, although for some reason it felt like a lot further-could have been the 12-15kg back pack. A maximum of 48 walkers commence the walk daily.

Unusually, there is almost no signage along the whole 48 km of track, apart from the odd sign warning of the danger of going too close to the edge. In a refreshing approach, each walker is provided a 94 page glossy booklet (excellent publication) which covers everything that you might need to know about the actual walk, the plants and animals encountered, the geological and climatic influences on the region and human interest stories.

Surveyors Hut. The first of 3, all of a similar design. Certainly the best walking accommodation that we have seen anywhere in the world-well done Tassie.

View towards Cape Raoul from Surveyor hut. While not seen in the image, a wombat was grazing in the foreground.

Day 2: Surveyors to Munro (11 km). On Arthurs Peak.

From Arthurs Peak looking west towards Mt Brown and Cape Raoul

Heading towards Cape Pillar. Board walks are used on much of the track to minimise environmental degredation.

It's a hard life

'Love in the Woods' storyseat (designed by Paul Mitchell). So called, storyseats, are dotted along the track to allow walkers to take a comfortable break while absorbing the natural beauty and history of the region. The seats, all different, were designed and built by the furniture design students of the University of Tasmania. The storyseats are all named and referenced within the track book.

Made for walking

The track wends its way through amazing and everchanging ecosystems and landscapes, from heath plateaus to cloud forests.

Munro Hut included a hot shower.....luxury. Two kitchens and common areas are provided at each site with bunk rooms accommodating either 4 or 8 persons. Bring your ear plugs.

Looking towards Cape Hauy from the amazing viewing platform at Munro

Looking across Munro Bight to Cape Hauy, an intermediate destination on the way to Fortesque Bay on Day 4

Sunrise at Munro

Day 3: Munro to Retakunna (19 km). Heavy backpacks were replaced by day packs for the 16 km return walk to Cape Pillar. It was then back to the heavies for the final 3km walk in the rain to Retakunna hut.

Storyseats: Left, Banks of Oaks (Simon Ancher); Right: Sex on the Cape (Alex Chee). It's all about plant reproduction silly.

Dolerite columns, Cape Pillar

Headlands and bluffs on the track to Cape Pillar

Towards Cape Pillar

A beautiful sight, Tasman Island from the forbidding cliffs of Cape Pillar. A lighthouse was built on the island in 1906, the stories of its building, its routine supply and manning are legend.

What can I say???

Nearing Cape Pillar

Through low shrubby bush, our first sight of 'The Blade', a laterite bluff extending out from Cape Pillar.

Magnificant rock formations

Tasman Island and the blade

The climb up to tthe top of the blade is a must do. Spot the walker at the top.

On top of the blade. Gnarled and windswept.

Banksia beauty

Cape Pillar

Delirious

Day 4: Retakunna to Fortescue Bay via Cape Hauy (14km). Meandering through Dicksonia tree fern forests, part of the ancient temperate rainforest.

Rugged coastline and caves between Cape Pillar and Cape Hauy

Cape Pillar and Cathederal Rock with Tasman Island in the background

Across the peninsula to Cape Hauy. Down, along, up and over, and then repeat the exercise. 4500 stone steps. They are beautifully crafted, well done someone.

Between a rock and a hard place. On Cape Hauy

Dramatic cliffs, Cape Hauy

The Totem Pole, Cape Hauy. A freestanding dolerite pillar spearing straight out of the water, 65m tall and 4 m wide at its base. It was first climbed in 1968, twenty to 30 climbers accept the challenge annually.

Cape Hauy

Day 5: Cape Raoul (14km). Raoul is the third mentioned cape in the Three Capes Walk although it is not always completed by those walking to the other 2 (Pillar and Hauy). An additional day is required to undertake this trek.

Spectacular dolerite columns, Cape Raoul

Pond life

Windswept

Natural bonsai

The Cape Pillar she-oak (Allocasuarinas crassa) is only found at Cape Pillar, Tasman Island and Arthurs Peak. It is pollinated by the wind.

Cape Raoul, a climbers paradise.

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