Spring into Kii

For over 1000 years people from all levels of society, including retired emperors and aristocrats, have made the pilgrimage to Kumano in Wakayama Prefecture, Japan. These pilgrims used a network of routes, now called the Kumano Kodo, which stretched across the mountainous Kii Peninsula. The walk itself was an integral part of the pilgrimage process as they undertook rigorous religious rites of worship and purification (http://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/). In July 2004, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage routes were registered as UNESCO World Heritage. Today these routes are popular walking trails with great scenery, excellent accommodation and terrific hospitality. In early spring, we caught a train from Osaka to the town of Tanabe on the south-east coast of the peninsula and then a local bus up into the mountains to Takijiri-oji, the start of the walk. Three days later, 40-50 km of walking over some quite steep hills, with and without rain, we arrived at Hongu, our destination and the site of one of the major shrines on the route, the Kumano Hongu Taisha. While we were congratulating ourselves on a job well done, we realised that we still had another 2 km to go up a very steep track and then 2 km down a very steep track to get to our accommodation at Yunomine Hot Spring. While the odd expletive may have been voiced during this additional strenuous activity, all was forgiven when we arrived at Minshuku Yunotaniso Guesthouse and found the onsen. Some sightseeing later including lots of cherry blossoms, another bus took us down to the coastal fishing port of Shingu and some memorable dining in the local bars before heading back to Tokyo via Nagoya and the shinkansen. A most enjoyable few days.

The start of the Kumano Kodo Trek on the Kii Peninsula, Wakayama Prefecture, Japan

The first day of the trek, heading for Takahara

In the tall timbers

Occasionally the trail pops out of the trees

Spring is sprung

Its a wet place as we found out on 2 of the 3 days of walking

There are lots of signs of past civilizations as you walk through the forest

One of the many shrines along the track. Near Nonaka on day 2

There were some pleasant strolls along small country roads. Near Nonaka on day 2

We timed our walk just about perfectly for the cherry blossoms. Near Nonaka on day 2

Our version of a selfie as we walked through the village of Chikatsuyu on day 2

800 year old Japanese Cedar trees surround the Shinto Shrine near Nonaka

They're big trees

Day 3 from Nonaka to Hongu. An umbrella should be standard kit on wet days of walking

Lost in the mists of time Day 3

One of many small streams crossed by bridge of course, very civilised

The Japanese are experts at repairing landslides, I hope

Our last night of the walk in the village of Yunomine Hot Spring over a very steep hill from Hongu. It was great to arrive and be able to wallow in a very warm and pleasant onsen . Great after a days walking.

The Kumano Hongu-Taisha Shrine stood on this site until it got swept away by floodwaters in 1889. Not really surprising as it is on the floodplain of the Shingu River. The origional Shrine is now honoured by a very impressive Tori (arch) situated amongst the paddy fields, possibly the largest in Japan.The main shrine is now located on a hill in Hongu.