The longest shortcut-Kalbarri NP, Sea and surf WA (7)
We arrived to find Exmouth humming, loads of grey nomads and the caravan parks full. Lucky, we booked. I had thought that Exmouth was just another small and isolated Western Australian, coastal town, surviving on agriculture and fishing. Not so, the Harold E Holt Communication Centre was jointly established in the 1960s by the US and Australian military, to service the very low frequency communication needs of submerged US and Au submarines in the Indian and Western Pacific Oceans. It was only after the communication centre was built that the town developed to support the employees of the base, although there had been a small military presence in the area as early as World War 2. The population is currently around 2800 people. The antennae farm, located by the ocean, a few km from town, consists of 13 towers in a star configuration, with tower height ranging between 304 m (the shortest) to 387 m (the tallest). The towers are spread over a diameter of 2.52 km. The communication base is an important facility for both countries, although in more recent years, Exmouth has also become an important tourism destination. The town is a gateway to nearby Ningaloo Marine Park with its coral reefs, colourful fish and migratory whale sharks. Cape Range National Park almost surrounds the town with wildlife, sheer cliffs and red, rocky gorges, while Jurabi Coastal Reserve's tidal rock pools, beaches and seasonal nesting grounds for marine turtles are also popular. After hitting the WA coast at Exmouth, we aimed to follow the coast south towards Perth for 1000 km, camping at a number of locations including Coral Bay, Monkey Mia, Kalbarri and the Pinnacles, before heading inland to New Norcia.