The Ghan revisited

Our aim was to follow the original route of the Great Northern Railway (but always known as the Ghan) from Hawker in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia, up through Maree, William Creek, Oodnadatta, Finke and into Alice Springs in the Northern Territory, a distance of about 1300 km. The line reached Oodnadatta in 1891 but it then took until 1926 to finally reach Alice Springs. During those years, the gap between Oodnadatta and The Alice was bridged by camel trains which took 3-4 weeks to complete the 600 km. The last narrow gauge Ghan was replaced in the 1980s by a modern standard gauge line built further to the west where it was less prone to flooding. I had always wanted to drive the line which I last experienced in 1980 when I caught the Ghan from Alice Springs to Adelaide (see the post ‘The Ghan’). The line was decommissioned soon after and by the mid-80s most of the rail and much of the infrastructure had been removed. Luckily for us, there have been moves to maintain some of the old stone station buildings and the Old Ghan Heritage Railway and Museum at Alice Springs continues to promote its history and the people who contributed to central and northern Australian development (http://northernterritory.com/alice-springs-and-surrounds/things-to-do/old-ghan-heritage-railway-and-museum). While the route is considered as a ‘soft’ 4WD experience, climate stills plays a big part in travel in the centre of Australia. All of the roads, or tracks are dirt north of Lyndhurst and are therefore subject to closure in wet weather. Fifty mm of rain fell around Oodnadatta which forced us to abandon our trek on the dirt at William Creek and to head west to join up with the bitumen at Coober Pedy. We were then able to follow the Stuart Highway north to Alice Springs. It is always good to be flexible when travelling in this environment and while we missed out on seeing some of the Ghan country, we did get to see Kings Canyon which had not been on the original agenda (see the post ‘Kings Canyon’). We did get to head south from the Alice towards Finke, visited the ruins at Rodinga Siding and spent a night at Chambers Pillar before heading home. We will have to go back to bridge the missing link between William Creek and Rodinga, I hope it doesn’t take as long as the pioneer rail builders in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It didn’t, in June 2018 we got our opportunity. We approached from the north heading south from Alice Springs to Finke and then onto Oodnadatta and William Creek via the Oodnadatta Track. While this was a great drive, disappointedly much of the Ghan heritage seems to have been lost in the more northern sections of the railway.

West of the Flinders Ranges and 20 km south of Parachilna. Starting to head north

Brachina Creek rail crossing looking south towards Adelaide. This part of the Ghan line was kept running to service the needs of the Leigh Creek mine which closed in 2015.

Brachina Creek rail crossing

All that seems to be left of the Ghan line at Lyndhurst is the sign and a vague right of way. This town is the junction between the Outback Way and the Strzlecki Track, an iconic historic stock route which runs for 500km north-east to Innamincka.

Hills hoist at Lyndhurst showing the impact of sand storms. Good for the vertically challenged.

Further north to Farina Station. One of the railway buildings

Farina station and water tank. This was harsh country, and still is.

Farina water tank from a distance

Farina water tank

Right of way and water filling station at Farina

This building in Farina started out as the Trans-Continental Hotel in 1878, then became the Bush Nurses Hospital in 1928 and finally a boarding house from 1945 to 1955.

The Farina Trans-Continental Hotel in 2017. In the foreground are the ruins of a private house with the iron cooking area the only recognizable part.

Farina-early road grader

Imagine the challenges of driving this car to farina back in the day. Since used for target practice

The Ghan arriving in Maree from Alice Springs.

Sunset at Maree (2018)

In 1957 this station became dual gauge with passengers transferring from the narrow gauge Ghan to a standard gauge train for the continuing trip to Port Augusta and Adelaide. Nothing much has changed since I made the transfer in 1980.

Maree railway station has not changed much either

Heading south from Maree

Maree Hotel at the junction of the Oodnadatta and Birdsville Tracks

Callanna Siding

Salt deposits near Callanna SA

North of Callanna

Lake Eyre south-the Ghan line runs right by

Curdimurka siding near Lake Eyre is one of the better restored sites on the Ghan

Curdimurka station

Curdimurka siding

Water processing facility at Curdimurka

Heading north from Curdimurka siding

Kennicot lime-soda water softening plant at Curdimurka. The plant was installed in 1943-44 to soften the highly mineralised water before being used in the steam engines.

Curdimurka water tower

Bath time

Maintenance required. In 1989, 381 mm of rainfall in 44 hours resulted in this damage to the line at Curdimurka siding

Strangways Mound Springs

Beresford siding

The wash house, Bereford Siding

Wash house with a view-Beresford siding

Beresford water tower and purification system

Water softener-Bereford siding

How does this thing work-Beresford siding

Happy campers. Who said older Aussies couldn't fly.

Stock yards-Strangways

Strangways OT repeater station and town ruins

One of the original wooden overland telegraph poles near Strangways OT repeater station. The OT line from Adelaide to Port Darwin was completed in 1872. Messages to Europe now took 2 days compared to the previous 40 by ship. Originally wood was used for the 36000 poles required to span the continent. However ,within 10 years these had been replaced by iron as termites quickly devoured the wood.

A lonely grave-Strangways

Graves in the bush-Strangways

Algebuckina Bridge south of Oodnadatta. The bridge was built in 1892 and was the longest at 579m for many years. (2018)

During floods in 1976 the car in the foreground attempted to use the rail bridge to cross the floodwaters. This was a common practice and would have worked, except for the train coming in the other direction. The driver survived.

Decaying wagon at Warrina Siding. Not much left now but in 1897 the siding was the starting point for the Elder Scientific Expedition which explored the country between Warrina and the Murchison River in Western Australia. The expedition, consisting of 14 men and 44 camels travelled a distance of 6886km over a 12 month period mapping 22000 square km of country previously unknown to Europeans. (2018)

William Creek, our last stop on the Ghan route from the south due to wet weather (hard to believe looking at the blue skies)

What is left of the old Ghan line about 20 km south of William Creek

Mt Dutton siding. These images can be compared against those taken in 1980 when I took one of the last passenger trains on the line through to Adelaide. See 'The Ghan' post. (2018)

Lonely grave, Mt Dutton (2018)

Creek crossing south of Oodnadatta (2018)

The Ghan railway reached Oodnadatta from the south in 1891. It remained the northern terminus until 1929 when the line was extended to Alice Springs. In the intervening years passengers and freight resorted to camels to complete the 600km journey which took 3-4 weeks. (2018)

Oodnadatta Railway Station, now a museum (2018)

Oodnadatta Station goods winch (2018)

Finke is a dusty little town on a dirt track about 240km south of Alice Springs. Not a lot there most of the time, except in June when it co-hosts the Finke Desert Race for bikes, cars, buggies and quads. Competitors race from the Alice to Finke and return, a total of 460km. It is touted as 'one of the most difficult offroad courses in one of the most remote places in the world' attracting around 600 competitors (https://finkedesertrace.com.au/28-about-us/120-about-finke). (2018)

The lonely Finke Railway Station

Mile post near Rodinga siding about 150 km south of Alice Springs

Fettlers accommodation at Rodinga siding about 150 km south of Alice Springs

Crossing the new Ghan line near Hugh River siding south of Alice Springs

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